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February 6, 2010

Misal Indian Bistro celebrates 3 decades in Norman

By Doug Hill

Nasir Ghouri's mom came to the conclusion that her son was having a bit too much fun away at college.

"In 1978 I was at the University of Wisconsin-Madison enjoying the town and student life," Ghouri said. "She thought I needed to be under the watchful eye of an older relative."

Mom called Nasir's cousin in Norman for ideas. Then she convinced her 21 year old son, an electrical engineering student, that Oklahoma would be a great place to study and live.

"If you move there you'll just have some fun," Mom said.

This aroused his curiosity.

"Like what?" Ghouri asked. "You'll open a restaurant," she replied.

Ghouri had no clue what that would entail. But with the enthusiasm of youth he began the work of his life in what would become a Norman institution.

Misal Indian Bistro, 580 Ed Noble Parkway, has introduced generations of Oklahomans to the rich culinary traditions of the Indian sub continent since opening in 1980.

Ghouri began his career as a restaurateur first working to get some experience at various Norman joints including Orin's Fine Pizza, Boomerang and Legends. Then, along with cousins including Neelam Misal, they soon opened an Indian restaurant in the heart of Campus Corner on Buchanan Ave. There were just two minor obstacles. None of them really knew how to cook or manage a dining establishment.

"For the first eight or 10 years we brought in cooks from India, Pakistan and Bangladesh," Ghouri said. "But they would get really homesick and lonely." He explained that while Norman is good for international students and professionals, not so much for unmarried workers. "Our cooks would stay for a year or so and then want to go back," he said.

Ghouri learned the art of Indian cooking from these expatriates and began training chefs hired locally.

"Our Campus Corner store was so small," Ghouri said. "It seated maybe 35 people."

The 800 square foot space was indeed intimate with the seating in very close proximity to other diners.

"It was cozy and you wouldn't be strangers for long," Ghouri said.

By comparison Misal's present location on the "miracle mile of restaurants" is spacious while retaining a friendly and inviting ambience.

"The world has gotten so much smaller that now many people know about India and its regions," Ghouri said. "But back in 1980 we had to explain our food to new patrons." He observed that today the younger the customer the more likely they will be familiar with Indian dishes.

Misal has the distinction of being Oklahoma's first Indian restaurant. "And we were the only one for a long time," Ghouri said. "People drove here from Tulsa, Oklahoma City and all over the state."

With the increase in Norman's population and the cuisine's popularity there are now two other Indian restaurants in town and many across Oklahoma.

"We have customers who have been coming here since the first day we opened," Ghouri said. "I have watched children grow up and have their own kids."

Because Misal began building their menu favorites prepared by cooks from all around the sub continent they have a regionally diverse set of offerings. Tandoori specialties roasted in a charcoal-fired clay oven have been one of my personal favorites for more than 27 years of visits.

"Sometimes when Indians or Pakistanis come in and see dishes from all over, such as our Seekh Kababs (garlic and ginger beef on a skewer), they get thoroughly confused," Ghouri said. "We've always been open to different influences."

In 2009 and several years prior Transcript readers have voted Misal Best Healthy and Vegetarian Restaurant. Ghouri calculates that 40 percent of his customers and many wait staff are vegan.

"They tend to be the younger people," he said.

The menu has an entire vegetarian section and several of the appetizers, salads and soups are meatless as well.

"I feel like we're a part of Norman," Ghouri said. "Many people come here for special occasions and its wonderful being privy to those moments in their lives."

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